The traverse from Piz Palù (3900 m) to Piz Bernina (4049 m) is one of the most spectacular and complete routes in the Bernina Group, featuring a perfect mix of sharp ridges, mixed terrain (snow, ice, and rock), and breathtaking views over the Central Alps. This is a challenging and technical route that requires excellent physical preparation, glacier experience, and solid climbing skills on exposed ridges.
The Piz Palù - Piz Bernina Traverse is an extraordinary mountaineering itinerary for expert alpinists, an exceptional alpine challenge, combining two legendary peaks in a single adventure: one of the most beautiful traverses in the Alps, with exposed and technical ridges; a complete alpine experience on snow, ice, and rock, breathtaking views over the Engadin and Valmalenco regions.
Day 01: approach to Diavolezza Hut
Meeting point at the Diavolezza cable car parking.
Ascent by cable car to the Diavolezza refuge 2978 m.
Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.
Day 02: Piz Palù traverse
Cross the Pers Glacier, reaching the base of the East Ridge of Piz Palù.
The ascent follows the stunning East Ridge, featuring exposed snow sections and rock climbing (up to II-III UIAA).
After 4-5 hours of climbing, the summit of Piz Palù (3900 m) is reached.
Descent along the West Ridge to Fuorcla Bellavista (3688 m), where an overnight stay is possible at the Marco e Rosa hut. Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.
Elevation gain approximately 1000 m - elevation loss 480 m - 6/7 hours
Day 03: Piz Bernina Normal route
From Fuorcla Bellavista, follow the Bellavista Ridge, with mixed climbing sections and exposed snowy ridges.
Reach Crast' Agüzza (3854 m), a key point in the traverse with rock climbing sections up to III UIAA.
After Crast' Agüzza, cross the glacier to the base of the South-West Ridge (Spallagrat) of Piz Bernina.
The climb alternates rock climbing (III UIAA) with snow and mixed terrain, leading to the summit of Piz Bernina (4049 m).
The descent follows the Spallagrat, leading back to Marco e Rosa Hut. From there, a long descent continues to Morteratsch via the Morteratsch Glacier, until the cable car station..
Elevation gain approximately 800 m - elevation loss 1350 m - 8/10hours
from € 1200 - 1 person
from € 1400 - 2 persons
Overnight stay, dinner and breakfast (2 nigths).
Tickets for lift facilities.
The Mountain Guide's expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation).
Transfers.
Crampons
Mountaineering ax
Climbing helmet
Climbing harness
Descender
Carabiners
Mountain boots
Water bottle
Snacks
Technical apparel
Change of clothing
Backpack
To reserve a IFMGA-UIAGM Certified Mountain Guides for climbing the Piz Palù - Piz Bernina traverse, you must send a request that provides and specifies your contact information, the number of participants and the date/period in which you wish to take the Piz Palù - Piz Bernina mountaineering experience.
We will respond immediately to confirm the availability of the guide, the deadline, if any, to confirm the option for the reservation, methods of payment, characteristics and organization of the mountaineering experience.
Once the reservation is confirmed, we will send you the receipt and the presentation voucher with the details of the service, the name of the mountain guide or the mountaineering school, and all the contact information.