The Biancograt route to the summit of Piz Bernina (4049 m) is an extraordinary itinerary for expert alpinists, a unique journey through one of the most beautiful and elegant snow ridge of the Alps. It is a challenging climb that requires experience and good training, but it is also one of the most iconic and rewarding mountaineering routes with a spectacular ridge, both aesthetic and technical, and a perfect mix of rock, snow, and ice. Biancograt is a unique high-altitude experience in the Eastern Alps.

Route Overview:

Day 01: approach to Tschierva Hut
The route starts from Pontresina (Engadin, Switzerland), following the Val Roseg trail to the Tschierva Hut (2583 m).
The hike takes about 4 hours and 800 meters elevation gain, with stunning views of the Bernina massif.
Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.

Day 02/03: summit ascent via Biancograt
The climb begins at about 4 am, crossing the Tschierva Glacier to reach the ridge.
The ascento to the summit takes about 6 hours and 1500 meters elevation gain from the hut.

First section
The route starts with steep rock climbing (III+ UIAA), including mixed sections.

Biancograt - The White Ridge
This is the most iconic and breathtaking section, featuring a sharp, snow-covered ridge; requires excellent crampon technique and careful movement; the climb continues over steep and exposed snow slopes.

Final section
After the ridge, the last part consists of rock and mixed climbing leading to the summit cross of Piz Bernina.

Descent
The descent follows the South-West Ridge (Spallagrat), a mix of rock and snow leading to the Marco e Rosa Hut (3597 m). From there, the route continues across the Morteratsch Glacier, returning to Pontresina.

Mountain guide price for the ascent of the Piz Bernina Via Biancograt

from € 1300 - 1 person

The price not includes:

Overnight stay, dinner and breakfast (1/2 nigth).
Tickets for lift facilities.
The Mountain Guide's expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation).
Transfers.

To reserve a IFMGA-UIAGM Certified Mountain Guides for climbing the Piz Bernina via Biancograt, you must send a request that provides and specifies your contact information, the number of participants and the date/period in which you wish to take the Piz Bernina ascent.
We will respond immediately to confirm the availability of the guide, the deadline, if any, to confirm the option for the reservation, methods of payment, characteristics and organization of the mountaineering experience.
Once the reservation is confirmed, we will send you the receipt and the presentation voucher with the details of the service, the name of the mountain guide or the mountaineering school, and all the contact information.