The Biancograt ("White Ridge") is the most spectacular and elegant way to ascend Piz Bernina (4049 m), while Piz Palù (3900 m) is one of the most iconic summits of the Bernina Range. Combining both peaks in a single traverse makes for an epic alpine challenge, featuring exposed knife-edge snow ridges, mixed climbing on ice and rock, and breathtaking panoramic views over the Alps.
This route requires excellent fitness, strong technical skills on ice and rock (up to III UIAA), and the ability to move efficiently on exposed ridges. It is a long, committing, and highly rewarding climb, perfect for experienced alpinists.
The Biancograt - Piz Palù traverse is one of the most beautiful and rewarding alpine traverses, ideal for those seeking a technical, high-altitude adventure. It combines two of the most stunning ridges in the Alps. A perfect mix of technical ice, rock, and high-altitude mountaineering. Incredible scenery with 360° views of the Bernina Range.
Day 01: approach to Tschierva Hut
The route starts from Pontresina (Engadin, Switzerland), following the Val Roseg trail to the Tschierva Hut (2583 m).
The hike takes about 4 hours and 800 meters elevation gain, with stunning views of the Bernina massif.
Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.
Day 02: Biancograt ascent to Piz Bernina
The climb begins at about 4 am.
Cross the Tschierva Glacier, reaching the base of the Biancograt (~3400 m).
Climb steep snow/ice slopes (40-50°) to the famous sharp snow ridge.
The ridge leads to Piz Bianco (3995 m), a small peak before the final rock section.
From Piz Bianco, ascend the ridge with a mixed climb (III UIAA, rock, snow and ice).
Reach the summit of Piz Bernina (4049 m).
Follow the South-West Ridge down to Marco e Rosa Hut for an overnight stay.
Day 03: Traverse to Piz Palù & Descent to Diavolezza
The climb begins at dawn.
Traverse from Piz Bernina to Piz Palù
Crossing of Piz Palù, a panoramic ridge at the edge of the sky.
Climb steep snow slopes (40-45°) to the main summit of Piz Palù (3900 m).
Enjoy stunning views of the Engadin, Ortler, and Adamello ranges.
Follow the classic normal route of Piz Palù down to the Pers Glacier.
Continue to Diavolezza Hut (2973 m), where the cable car provides an easy descent to Pontresina.
Return to the starting point by train.
from € 1600 - 1 person
Overnight stay, dinner and breakfast (2 nigth).
Tickets for lift facilities.
The Mountain Guide's expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation).
Transfers.
Crampons
Mountaineering ax
Climbing helmet
Climbing harness
Descender
Carabiners
Mountain boots
Water bottle
Snacks
Technical apparel
Change of clothing
Backpack
To reserve a IFMGA-UIAGM Certified Mountain Guides for climbing the Biancograt - Piz Palù traverse, you must send a request that provides and specifies your contact information, the number of participants and the date/period in which you wish to take the Biancograt and Piz Palù 3-day ascent.
We will respond immediately to confirm the availability of the guide, the deadline, if any, to confirm the option for the reservation, methods of payment, characteristics and organization of the mountaineering experience.
Once the reservation is confirmed, we will send you the receipt and the presentation voucher with the details of the service, the name of the mountain guide or the mountaineering school, and all the contact information.